Vinous: 92pts
Apple, mango, rhubarb and fresh green send out an aromatic signal that this bottling will be both vintage-typically ripe and Grüner Veltliner-typically crunchy, not to mention fascinating. A correspondingly diverse fruit and vegetable mélange informs the glossy, vividly juicy and (at not quite 12 percent alcohol) delightfully buoyant palate. A consummately refreshing and at once soothingly - as well as stimulatingly - sustained finish is enhanced by fresh lime, cress, iodine and shimmeringly crystalline mineral impingements. “The sandy, eroded Urgestein should be reflected in levity and minerality,” remarked Muthenthaler. Irresistible now, this harmoniously proportioned offering should prove fascinating and highly rewarding to follow. (Where the corresponding Spitzer Graben bottling was raised in tank, this was raised almost entirely in large cask.)