Ronchi di Cialla Sol 2008

Wine Advocate: 91+ pts

A dry expression of Picot, the 2008 Sol merits some sort of initiation ceremony. It’s not an easy wine to understand, nor is it a love-at-first-sight proposition. But it does warm to your senses the more time and attention you give it. The aromas are dusty and tight and rather than fruit tones, you get crushed granite, yellow candy lemon curd and dried flowers. The most fascinating aspect to the wine is the structure that is bold, sharp and focused. A spot of bright acidity really pulls it together in a seamless fashion. I’m sure you are scratching your head regarding that hefty retail price. The Picolit variety famously suffers from a genetic disorder called floral abortion. A single cluster may produce as little as six or seven grape berries. With such painfully low yields, it takes dozens of acres of vine to fuel production (only 700 bottles are made). This is a rare and precious wine that merits attention, especially from an ampelographical-anthropological point of view. The bold 15% alcohol is the main distraction. Drink: 2016-2022. Monica Larner, Dec 2013

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